EFEBojayá, Colombia

The anxiety is palpable from the moment the boat leaves Quibdó and sets off along the Atrato river that skirts the capital of Colombia’s Chocó region.

Here, paramilitary groups control the waterway and travel along the river is impossible without their permission.

Their presence can be felt just 15 minutes outside of Quibdó, where riverfront buildings are daubed with their initials ‘AGC,’ which stands for the Autodefensas Gaitanistas de Colombia (the Gaitanist Self-Defense Forces of Colombia), a group also known as the Gulf Clan.

People around these parts whisper about the paramilitary groups, fearing their presence in the villages.